What a way to return! The Year of the Local is back and kicking off with one of the industry’s largest players; Coles Group. The national supermarket chain is not only the second biggest alcohol retailer in the country, through it’s Liqourland, First Choice & Vintage Cellars stores, but is also a significant player in the craft beer scene through their house labels.
These house labels were one of the reasons I originally started the Year of the Local project after getting questions about the provenance of the brand about a number of them. Coles has three main “brands” that play in the craft beer space at the time of writing. They are Steam Rail Brewing Company, Lorry Boys & Tinnies. They have a number of other brands; Smithy’s, Hammer N Tongs etc. however they are less relevant to the average craft drinker.
Brewery Type
Contract
Region
Inner Suburbs
Tasting Room
None
The rise of house labels at the major retailers is something that craft brewers should be concerned about. Many brewers rely on the big retailers for a significant percentage of their sales, whilst the retailers use these house labels to capitalize on their success. Coles openly want to have 40% of their products being house labels in the supermarket – and it appears that their liquor arm is following a similar trajectory.
Steamrail is the longest running of these “brands”, having been around since 2013. The beers are solid, without being outstanding. The Tinnies range launched in 2018, but didn’t really come to prominence until the relaunch in 2021. The beers are solid examples of the styles they’re named after & are brewed at Brick Lane.
I don’t believe either the Steamrail or Tinnies brands are openly deceptive. The only one I take issue with is Lorry Boys. The beers all bear the name of the fictional “Jim & Joe” and attempt to convince the consumer that this is/was a small operation – regularly brewing small batches. The reality is that they are massed produced beers, for one of the countries biggest retailer, brewed at one of the countries largest brewers (Tribe). Whilst I understand Steamrail has a similar, cock & bull story, I don’t feel it’s as overt or as pushed as the Lorry Boys narrative is.
Naturally I’ve done the hard work for you and tried beers from each of the “brands”. Steamrail Ghost of Eyre, is a perfectly solid, lower end, Pale Ale. Jim & Joe’s Pacific Ale from Lorry Boys is a serviceable beer, albeit a bit thin & a bit lacking in hop character. Finally the Tinnies Stout…. Honestly, the pick of the Tinnies range for me is the Ultra Low Alcohol Hoppy Ale, it’s one of my go to NA Beers due to it’s impressive citrus hop notes, whilst also retaining some malt character.
Remember it’s always Beer O’Clock somewhere in the world!
